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A Fashionable Century

A Fashionable Century: Textile Artistry and Commerce in the Late Qing (University of Washington Press, 2020)

Author Rachel Silberstein discusses textile history, craft, and gendered consumption in nineteenth-century China.

key themes
  • Gender and identity
  • Material culture
  • Art market and commerce
  • Dress, textiles, and the body
further reading
  • Daria Berg and Chloe Starr, eds. The Quest for Gentility in China: Negotiations beyond Gender and Class. New York: Routledge, 2007.
  • James Cahill, Pictures for Use and Pleasure: Vernacular Painting in High Qing China. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2010.
  • James Cahill, Julia M. White, and Sarah Handler, eds. Beauty Revealed: Images of Women in Qing Dynasty Chinese Painting. Berkeley: Berkeley Art Museum and Pacific Film Archive, 2013.
  • BuYun Chen, Empire of Style: Silk and Fashion in Tang China. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 2019.
  • Sarah Dauncey, “Illusions of Grandeur: Perceptions of Status and Wealth in Late Ming Female Clothing and Ornamentation.” East Asian History 25–26 (2003): 43–68.
  • Fan Jinmin 範金民. Ming Qing Jiangnan shangye de fazhan 明清江南商業的發展. Nanjing: Nanjing Daxue Chubanshe, 1998.
  • Antonia Finnane, Changing Clothes in China. New York: Columbia University Press, 2008.
  • Grace S. Fong, “Female Hands: Embroidery as a Knowledge Field in Women’s Everyday Life in Late Imperial and Early Republican China.” Late Imperial China 25.1 (June 2004): 1–58
  • I-Fen Huang, “Gender, Technical Innovation, and Gu Family Embroidery.” EASTM (East Asian Science, Technology and Medicine), no. 36 (2012): 77–129.
  • Dorothy Ko, “Bondage in Time: Footbinding and Fashion Theory.” Fashion Theory 1.1. 2003: 3–28.
  • Rachel Silberstein, “Other People’s Clothes: The Second-Hand Clothes Dealer and the Art Dealer in Early Twentieth-Century China.” West 86th: A Journal of Decorative Arts, Design History, and Material Culture 26.2 (2019).
  • Wu Jen-shu 巫仁恕. Shechi de nüren: Ming Qing shiqi Jiangnan funü de xiaofei wenhua 奢侈的女人: 明清時期江南婦女的消費文化. Taipei: Sanmin Shuju, 2016.
  • Catherine Vance Yeh. Shanghai Love: Courtesans, Intellectuals and Entertainment Culture, 1850–1910. Seattle: University of Washington Press, 2006.
  • Paola Zamperini, “Clothes That Matter: Fashioning Modernity in Late Qing Novels.” Fashion Theory 5.2 (2001): 195–214.
  • Zhang Ailing 張愛玲 (Aileen Chang), “A Chronicle of Changing Clothes.” positions: east asia cultures critique 11.2 (1943/2003): 427–41.
Exhibitions and Collections
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Shirakaba and Japanese Modernism

Shirakaba and Japanese Modernism: Art Magazines, Artistic Collectives, and the Early Avant-garde (Brill, 2019)

Author Erin Schoneveld discusses White Birch Society’s avant-garde strategies in early 20th-century Japan and its impact on later avant-garde collectives.

Listen to an interview with Erin Schoneveld on the New Books in East Asian Studies podcast.

key themes
  • Art market and commerce
  • Global modernism and global contemporary art
  • Transcultural and transnational approaches
further reading
  • Clark, John. Modern Asian Art. Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 1998.
  • Guth, Christine. “Takamura Kōun and Takamura Kōtarō: On Being a Sculptor.” In The Artist as Professional in Japan, edited by Melinda Takeuchi, 152–79. Stanford: Stanford University Press, 2004.
  • Inaga, Shigemi. “Between Revolutionary and Oriental Sage: Paul Cézanne in Japan.” Japan Review 28 (2015): 133–72.
  • Kaneko, Maki. Mirroring the Japanese Empire: The Male Figure in Yōga Painting, 1930–1950. Brill Japanese Visual Culture 14. Leiden and Boston: Brill, 2015.
  • Kikuchi, Yūko. Japanese Modernization and Mingei Theory: Cultural Nationalism and Oriental Orientalism. London and New York: RoutledgeCurzon, 2004.
  • Kitazawa Noriaki. Kishida Ryūsei to Taishō abangyarudo. Tokyo: Iwanami Shoten, 1993.
  • Lucken, Michael. Imitation and Creativity in Japanese Arts: From Kishida Ryūsei to Miyazaki Hayao. Translated by Francesca Simkin. New York: Columbia University Press, 2016.
  • Nagai Takanori. “Nihon no Sezanisumu: 1920 nendai Nihon no jinkaku shugi Sezannu zō no biteki konkyō to sono keisei ni kan suru shisō oyobi bijutsu seisaku no bunmyaku ni tsuite.” Bijutsu kenkyū, no. 375 (2002): 38–56.
  • Omuka, Toshiharu. Kanshū no seiritsu: bijutsuten, bijutsu zasshi, bijutsushi. Tokyo: Tōkyō Daigaku Shuppankai, 2008.
  • Satō, Dōshin. Modern Japanese Art and the Meiji State: The Politics of Beauty. Translated by Hiroshi Nara. Los Angeles: The Getty Research Institute, 2011.
  • Szostak, John D. Painting Circles: Tsuchida Bakusen and Nihonga Collectives in Early 20th-Century Japan. Brill Japanese Visual Culture 11. Leiden and Boston: Brill, 2013.
  • Tiampo, Ming. Gutai: Decentering Modernism. Chicago: University of Chicago Press, 2011.
  • Volk, Alicia. “Authority, Autonomy, and the Early Taishō ‘Avant Garde’.” positions: east asia cultures critique 21, no. 2 (Spring 2013): 451–73.
  • Volk, Alicia. In Pursuit of Universalism: Yorozu Tetsugorō and Japanese Modern Art. Berkeley: University of California Press and Washington, DC: Phillips Collection, 2010.
  • Volk, Alicia. “A Unified Rhythm: Past and Present in Japanese Modern Art.” In Japan & Paris: Impressionism, Post-Impressionism, and the Modern Era, edited by Christine Guth, Yamanashi Emiko, and Alicia Volk, 39–55. Honolulu: Honolulu Academy of Fine Arts, 2004.
  • Weisenfeld, Gennifer. Mavo: Japanese Artists and the Avant-garde, 1905–1931. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2002.
  • Winther-Tamaki, Bert. Maximum Embodiment: Yoga, the Western Painting of Japan, 1912–1955.Honolulu: University of Hawai‘i Press, 2012.
Exhibitions and Collections
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Transcending Patterns

Transcending Patterns: Silk Road Cultural and Artistic Interactions through Central Asian Textiles (University of Hawaii Press, 2019)

Author Mariachiara Gasparini discusses textile history across and beyond the Silk Road between the 7th to 14th centuries.

key themes
  • Buddhism, Daoism, and Confucianism
  • Material culture
  • Art market and commerce
  • Transcultural and transnational approaches
  • Silk Road studies
Categories
Videos

Yumeji Modern

key themes
  • Gender and identity
  • Material culture
  • Art market and commerce
  • Transcultural and transnational approaches
  • Global modernism and global contemporary art
  • Media and design
further reading
Categories
Videos

Hua Yan

Hua Yan (1682-1756) and the Making of the Artist in Early Modern China (Brill, 2020)

Author Kristen Loring Brennan discusses painting and social status in eighteenth-century China.

key themes
  • Gender and identity
  • Calligraphy, brush arts, and word-and-image
  • Landscape, gardens, and environment
  • Art market and commerce
  • Social status
  • Canon
further reading
  • Ginger Cheng-chi Hsu, A Bushel of Pearls: Painting for Sale in Eighteenth-century Yangchow (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 2001)
  • Tobie S. Meyer-Fong, Building Culture in Early Qing Yangzhou (Stanford: Stanford University Press, 2003)
  • Yeewan Koon, A Defiant Brush: Su Renshan and the Politics of Painting in Early 19th-Century Guangdong (Hong Kong: Hong Kong University Press, 2014)